​​Being properly dressed is perhaps more important than you think. Never work in jeans and regular shoes, even if you only are doing “some” cutting.

​​1. Approved protective trousers are important. Protective trousers have built-in protection with long fibers that stop the chain in an instant if it penetrates the outer garment.
2. Approved helmet with hearing protectors and visor is also very important. Protects hearing, eye, face and head.
3. Safety boots must have steel toecaps, saw protection on the upper side and front and rough patterned sole. Protects feet and offer secure footing.
4. Work gloves protect your hands from cuts and bruise. At least when you files or replace chain.
5. You should always have a first aid kit available. Store it in a breast pocket or tool belt.
6. Long Sleeve or jacket is necessary to protect your arms against sharp branches and sawdust spurting from the saw.

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• TENSIONING THE CHAIN

​​ A new chain need to be tighten after about 20 minutes of use. Turn off the engine, put down the saw and loosen the sword screws. 
Turn the chain tensioner clockwise until the chain is tight. Then tighten the sword screws. 
Check that the chain has an oil film, If so, then you know that the chain lubrication is working properly. 

​​Think before you start to cut, especially if it iss a rough trunk. Where will the cut piece fall when detaches? And what happens with the rest of the tree when you cut off a large, heavy piece?
As always: Grasp the front handle with your left hand and with your thumb under the handle. Insert the saw at full throttle. Standing obliquely behind the saw when working, not just behind.

If you try to cut the trunk from above when it is resting on both ends,
the cropped side will be pushed together and trapping the saw.
You must therefore always saw the trunk from underneath. 
First, make a small incision on the upper side of the cut to prevent the trunk to crack.

​​If you try to cut the trunk from above when it is resting on both ends,
the cropped side will be pushed together and trapping the saw.
You must therefore always saw the trunk from underneath. 
First, make a small incision on the upper side of the cut to prevent the trunk to crack. 

​​If the ends you are cutting of hanging in midair, saw it 
off from above this prevent the saw from being trapped.
First make a small incision on the upper side of the cut to prevent the trunk to crack.

​​Sometimes it can be difficult to judge how the log is. If the saw gets stuck, do not under any circumstances attempt to jerk it loose with the engine running. This can damage both you and the saw. You must instead stop the engine and pry out the cut in the deck to loosen the saw. Work calmly and methodically.

​​1. PLANNING AND PREPARATIONS
Once you have familiarized yourself with your chainsaw, it is time to fell the first tree. For the work to be as safe and efficient as possible, it is important to plan felling in advance and always a step ahead in mind. 

​​2. SET FALL DIRECTION
Once you have decided which tree you will fell, it is time to determine the direction of the fall.
You should then consider the following factors:
Is the tree leaning?
Is the branches hanging in a particular direction?
The wind direction?
The simplest is to fell the tree in the direction it will fall naturally due to slope, overhang and wind direction. Felling In another direction requires a special technique, more effort, and is sometimes almost impossible to implement. It is an advantage if you can fell the tree across a log, rock or stump. Then you get a comfortable working height for limbing and gown.
Note! If there are other people in the vicinity, the safe distance for them is at least two tree lengths.

​​3. LIMBING THE BOTTOM OF THE TRUNK
First, cut away the low branches that could be in the way. Remember never to cut above shoulder height.

Do not stand directly behind the saw.
Use the trunk as a barrier between you and the saw.

       ​​​​​​​ 4. CLEAN WORK SITE AND A RETREAT PATH
        Prepare the ground around the tree and a few meters behind it.
When the tree falls, you need to move a few steps diagonally backwards because the root may turn upward and backward, or sideways.

​​​​ 5. PRINSIPPET FOR RETTET FELLING
To force the tree to fall in the desired direction, use a method that professional
loggers call "directional felling". This means that you cut a sort of hinge that
govern the tree in the fall all the way down to the ground. To create such a hinge you first cut out a wedge shaped piece, called directional cuts, on the side of the tree to fall. Next cut, the felling cut, cut horizontally from the other side. You do not saw through the entire trunk,
but leave a piece, approximately 3 cm. This piece is also called break edge and acts as a hinge, which controls the direction of the fall.

​​ 6. STEERING/DIRECTIONAL CUT
A.  Stand with your feet apart behind the tree and lean your left shoulder against the trunk to keep you steady. Aim for at least the direction of the upper side of the front handle. Then you will get the right direction for the cut, since the handle on a Jonsered-saw is at right angles to the sword.
B. First cut. Grab the front handle with your left thumb underneath, apply full throttle and then saw downwards by approximately 60-degree angle. Directional cut length should be approximately 1 / 4-1 / 5 of the trunk diameter. Start high up on the trunk that you get enough space under the cut.
C. Stand in the same position and saw under the cut. Grab the handle with your left hand and thumb underneath, and give full throttle (throttle with your right thumb). Put a saw with approximately 30-degree angle upward, and saw exactly into the upper cut, neither more nor less. It is very important that the two cuts meet precisely so that the hinge steers the tree all the way down to the ground. While the bottom cut you should look down the top cut to see when the two meet. If you've done it right, you have a perfect directional cut with a 90 degree opening.

​​​​​​​​​​​​​​ 7. MAIN CUT
First a tips: Stop the engine and check the fuel level. Running out of fuel when felling cut can be risky.
A. The felling cut need to be in level with the directional cut tip, or something over. Do not forget to leave a breaking edge of at least 3 cm.
B. If the diameter is smaller than the sword, you can cut straight from behind in relation to the direction of fall.
C. Otherwise, start by bringing the saw on the side of the trunk and move backwards around the tree as you cut.
D. Stand with your feet apart in a study position, grab the handle with your left thumb under the handle, and apply full throttle before you start cutting.

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​​8.  RETREAT
A. When the felling cut is complete you should put the saw down, and lift if required the breaking bar to get the tree to fall. Lift with your back straight and knees bent. Work with your thigh muscles.
B. As the tree falls, go a few yards diagonally backwards, so you are at a safe distance when the trunk hits the ground. The root may turn upward and backward, or sideways

​​​​​​​​​ When the tree is down, you can begin to cutting branches (limb). This can be a risky task, where it is easy to get a kickback. You must constantly watch where you have your sword tip so you do not bump into a hidden branch with the tip/throws sector.
As usual, you should take hold of the front handle with your left hand and thumb under the handle, and apply full throttle before you start cutting. Again, plan the work and always try to be a step ahead in your mind.

​​When limbing a tree (cutting branches), stand on the left side of the trunk. Starting position is with your feet apart, upright and with the saw resting on the trunk. If the tree rests on the stump and branches, or a stick or stone, it lies in a good working height and you now have a comfortable and safe working position.
Work from the root and up. Remember that you should have the trunk as a barrier between you and the saw when you move along with the tree.

​​We recommend strongly that you learn how to file the chain yourself. The chain must in in fact always be sharp, so you can cut efficiently, safely and accurately. The professional timber files the chain several times a day, because they know that a sharp chain is as important as a strong motor.
How often should you file the chain? It depends on how much you use the saw, but when you think that it starts to feel blunt, it's usually time to file it. The sawdust’s appearance can be a good indication of the chain condition. A sharp chain produces fine, regular wood chips, while a blunt chain just gives dust.

​​You will need a round file, one flat file and “kombimal” that fits your chein. You will find everything you need at your Jonsered-dealer. A vise makes the task easier. Attach the bar so that you have both hands free.

​​Each joint in the chain works almost like a small planer. Chain efficiency is determined by the height difference between saw teeth (1) and the rider (2). The height difference determines how deep the saw teeth cut into the tree. The rider should be about 0.5-0.8 mm lower than the saw teeth.

​​First files you saw teeth. Add file template on the chain. The arrows on the template should point with the chain rotation. File with a light and steady pressure with calm pushing strokes, and with approximately 30-degree angle towards the sword. File each tooth with as many draws. File every other tooth from the right and the tooth there between from left. A tip: If you have attached the sword in a vise, it is easier to file every second tooth from one side, then turn the machine over and file the rest from the other side. 

​​Lay the rider template on the chain and use the flat file to file each rider down to the template. The template has two settings: H for hardwoods or frozen timber, and S "soft" for softwoods.
Warning: If you file the riders without template, you risk filing them too much. This will cause the chain bits to deep, with increased risk of throwbacks, excessive vibration and poor precision.